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    21/04/2009

    烟花三月

        故人西辞黄鹤楼,烟花三月下扬州

        清明小长假最后一天,正是从黄鹤楼下奔赴的机场,真巧。当日,竟偶遇一老爹爹在武汉长江大桥栏杆上玩平衡行走,实乃反复路过长江之最彪悍一幕。

        据说当日扬州火车站早间关闭,无法售票,只得坐长途大巴前往,虽然费点周折,但也一路顺利。另外,途中田园农户大片种植的油菜花,灿烂得堪比婺源。
        扬州城比我们想象得要大,公交车沿着古运河边走走停停,很是惬意。中心城区路广人稀街道整洁,路边时不时闪现个古迹或者仿古建筑出来,不禁流连其中不能自拔。个园很经典,前院中景后宅,享受得一塌糊涂。瘦西湖真美,如若每景必逐,足能游玩一天。沿湖漫步,琼花伴垂柳,红船漾碧波,依稀就是颐和园中美景,不由再度感慨,此景之美,于天子也钦慕。一天游毕,直奔“陆琴脚艺”,扬州三把刀之一的精湛技艺,让身心享受进一步升华。

    花絮1:个园边专辟一仿古商业街,兴冲冲欲一品淮扬美食,忽闻贩售人员口音甚熟,看街口横幅上大书——“四川美食展”。

    花絮2:瘦西湖徐园内有铁镬两具,国人遇类似之物喜投硬币入内以求平安吉祥。是日,遇有大款投入4张崭新20元大钞。游园一周返回时(不超过5分钟),上述纸币竟不翼而飞。

    花絮3:桃花坞旁一花圃,遍植黄色郁金香,入园时,还曾驻足留影,出园时惊见其被夷为平地,复留影一张,做无奈状。

    花絮4:导游甲:中国古代园林分两类,一类是北方皇家园林,一类是南方私家园林,判别标准是,前者用的真山真水,后者用的是假山假水,那么,我们现在参观的瘦西湖是哪一类啊?众游客:私家园林!导游甲:错,瘦西湖两个都不是!众游客:……

    花絮5:导游乙:现在我们看到的是长堤春柳,对面洲上有白鹭栖息,大家快看,现在飞起来的就是!某游客:哇,好大只野鸭!导游乙:……

        扬州之行印象甚好,不禁令人对苏州更增期待。而当华丽的动车组缓缓停靠进苏州火车站,就立即被破旧的站台和混乱的站外景象给了当头一棒。
        站前公路规划的不合理,导致秩序混乱,人群内好一阵拥挤,才登上了前往拙政园的公交。江苏景点门票整体很贵的大环境中,免费的苏州博物馆、忠王府显得尤为难得,良渚文化瑰宝点缀在江南园林之中,些许苍凉却也熠熠生辉。虽然占据了拙政园一角,却更大程度展现了历史文化之光。拙政园一步一景,处处是景,甚至用北寺塔借景,刻意追求的自然,却忘却了生活的现实,也许,个园后宅明清韵味的间间厢房,正是令人感觉其过于拙政园之处。
        前往虎丘的公交更为拥挤,窗外灰蒙蒙的街道,拥堵且显脏,与扬州差去甚远,艳阳当头,看得人直接打起了瞌睡。“到苏州而不游虎丘,诚为憾事!”唐尚佛,且文人雅士有游景赋诗之好,想黄冈江边一红色大石,即可激得大才子“大江东去浪淘尽”之赋,故苏东坡当有此叹。而今人更惯于在标志性地点留影,以告他人曾到此一游之意,“虎丘剑池”四个大字前拍照之客络绎不绝、与虎丘塔合影必纳入“苏州云岩寺塔”石碑之举,便是力证。
        夜游观前街,百年老店点缀期间,美食遍地且有文化底蕴,不失为游览之好去处。但人称其名,多为平声,殊不知其因横贯于玄妙观之前而得名,应作去声,实为最大憾事。

    花絮6:火车站“开封菜”内排队如厕的两位女士,让广大游客惊讶的见识到,原来吴侬软语吵起架来,竟比当年武汉公交售票大妈更为生猛。

    花絮7:刚到公交苏州博物馆站下车,即有黄包车夫上前吆喝:到拙政园一元!游览拙政园而出,遇当地警察查捕无证运营,之前吆喝的黄包车竟全被收缴,汗!

    花絮8:陆羽井,景区介绍上写着“由茶圣陆羽评定为天下第三泉”。某导游给游客介绍:天下第一,争得泉太多;天下第二呢,也有3个在争;但是没有争第三的,所以我们虎丘的这个泉,就得了天下第三……

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