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    12/04/2009

    南京游记(3)

        最初,它是陈友谅之子陈理的归德侯府,30多年后,这里成了朱高煦的汉王府。到了清朝,江宁织造署、江南总督府、两江总督府的铭牌先后更替;康乾两帝下江南时,甚至把它辟为行宫。金田义军定都后,洪秀全的天王府在此金碧辉煌;城破,曾国荃付之一炬,重建两江总督府,林曾李左张,耳熟能详的清末名臣均曾端坐它的中堂。民初,孙中山宣誓就职临时大总统于此,续而成为江苏军政要地。宁汉合流,这里有国府五院;行宪国大,正式更名总统府。三大战役电影里,解放军战士降下青天白日旗的经典镜头,是它最好的招牌广告。而现在,它是我国最大的近代史博物馆。
        这就是南京总统府,一个让人觉得时空错乱的地方。


        从门楼到大堂,再走到子超楼,只需几分钟,面积之小令人惊讶。原本以为极度奢华的总统办公室,竟然只有区区30平米,陈设也非常简单。对比雨花台区政府“白宫+五角大楼”的造型,寒酸不已。

    子超楼 蒋介石办公室 雨花台区政府大楼
        不禁想起大堂正中悬挂的孙中山先生手书——“天下为公”。如今流行“为人民服务”的照壁,虽然异曲同工,但境界实然不同。

    复件 天下为公
        最令人感慨的是行政院会议室上悬挂的军事地图,当年,我们的疆土,是那么的辽阔……

    行政院的军事地图
        说实话个人不喜欢东花园并列推出的太平天囯和两江总督府展览,复原仿建,有些不伦不类。相形而言,西花园(即煦园)一直保留的江南园林,则更让人怡神。特别是孙中山起居室部分的院落,灰瓦白墙青砖红梁,花繁叶茂山奇石异,很有小时候外婆家附近小巷院落的感觉。很怀念。

    煦园 石舫

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